Old Guy Surfing

Author : John Story
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781519459985
Total Pages : 62 pages
Book Rating : 4.8X/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book Old Guy Surfing written by John Story and published by . This book was released on 2015-11-23 with total page 62 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the black and white version of Old Guy Surfing.I may have to get older, but I don't have to grow up. Surfing reminds me of that every time I paddle out. Learn how I began to surf at 49 and how you can enjoy surfing into old age. Old Guy Surfing gives you strategies and techniques for surfing, even if you can't paddle out to the lineup and fight your way into the break. If you've ever wanted to surf, but haven't tried it, you owe it to yourself to read this book and give it a shot. If you surfed when you were younger, but gave it up, this book may be what it takes to get you back on a wave.

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.96/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Author : Diane Cardwell
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin
ISBN 13 : 0358067782
Total Pages : 275 pages
Book Rating : 4.88/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.

Author : David F. MKatuszak
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780963358288
Total Pages : pages
Book Rating : 4.86/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book San Onofre written by David F. MKatuszak and published by . This book was released on 2018-09-02 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: San Onofre: Memories of a Legendary Surfing Beach is a landmark achievement in the study of surfing history and culture from its origins in Polynesia, Peru, and Africa, to the role that San Onofre played in molding California surf culture.San Onofre is the story of the California surfing culture as seen through the eyes of the surfers at San Onofre Surf Beach. Pioneer surfers tell their own story of the Golden Age of Surfing and illustrate their tales with never-before-seen vintage photographs from their own family albums. Their stories offer a priceless collection of primary source data for future studies of the sport.

Author : Tom Vanderbilt
Publisher : Knopf
ISBN 13 : 1524732168
Total Pages : 321 pages
Book Rating : 4.65/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book Beginners written by Tom Vanderbilt and published by Knopf. This book was released on 2021 with total page 321 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The bestselling author of Traffic and You May Also Like now offers a thought-provoking, playful investigation into the transformative joys that come with starting something new, no matter one's age.

Author : Chas Smith
Publisher : Rare Bird Books
ISBN 13 : 9781644280331
Total Pages : 188 pages
Book Rating : 4.37/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book Cocaine + Surfing written by Chas Smith and published by Rare Bird Books. This book was released on 2019-12-11 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

Author : Paul Theroux
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin
ISBN 13 : 0358446287
Total Pages : 421 pages
Book Rating : 4.86/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book Under the Wave at Waimea written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2021 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.

Author : Matt Titone
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559071
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.7X/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book Surf Shacks written by Matt Titone and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2017 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many abodes can fall under the label of surf shack: New York City apartments, cabins nestled next to national parks, or tiny Hawaiian huts. Surfing communities are overflowing with creativity, innovation, and rich personas. Surf Shacks takes a deeper look at surfers' homes and artistic habits. Glimpses of record collections, strolls through backyard gardens, or a peek into a painter's studio provide insight into surfers' lives both on and off shore. From the remote Hawaiian nook of filmmaker Jess Bianchi to the woodsy Japanese paradise that the former CEO of Surfrider Foundation in Japan, Hiromi Masubara, calls home to the converted bus that Ryan Lovelace claims as his domicile and his transport, every space has a unique tale. The moments that these vibrant personalities spend away from the swell and the froth are both captivating and nuanced.

Author : Peter Heller
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1439171815
Total Pages : 336 pages
Book Rating : 4.13/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book Kook written by Peter Heller and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2010-07-13 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Author : Leonard Lueras
Publisher : Tuttle Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1462909361
Total Pages : 278 pages
Book Rating : 4.60/5 ( download)

DOWNLOAD NOW!

Download or read book Surfing Hawaii written by Leonard Lueras and published by Tuttle Publishing. This book was released on 2014-07-22 with total page 278 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing Hawaii is a guidebook to surfing at some of the most incredible surfing destinations in the world. Join Periplus' team of knowledgeable authors-photographer-surfers as they take you on an action-filled tour of the remarkable island of Hawaii. Drop into stoking wave circumstances—hopping from north to south across the Hawaiian Islands—through the extraordinary birthplace of surfing. This surfing guide contains: More than 140 action-charged photographs Insightful essays by surfers for surfers Detailed maps of important surf spots Up-to-date travel advisories Surf, suft and more surf If you like surfing or you are an inspiring surfer; this book will help guide you through the tips and tricks of the sport, including travel advisories, medical precautions, and safety hazards signs. And of course the spectacular views and places to surf in Indonesia are will be made aware to you.