Big Wave Rider

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 9780811841597
Total Pages : 272 pages
Book Rating : 4.96/5 ( download)

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Download or read book Maverick's written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2003-10-09 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With its massive faces, punishing rocks, and treacherous currents, Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Author Matt Warshaw has updated his critically acclaimed illustrated history of Maverick's to cover important recent developments, and we've added a fresh new cover to kick this edition off in style. "A fascinating account," to quote Surfer magazine, it takes "a cue from Sebastian Junger's The Perfect Storm...Warshaw focused on a single event...and expands on it to illuminate an entire culture and its world beyond waves." The event was the death of celebrated surfer Mark Foo, one of those who congregate every winter to test themselves in the dark, foreboding waters. And what unfolds in Maverick's is no less than the story of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins to modern tow-in riders. It's a book to be enjoyed not only by those who surf deep in the waves, but also by those whose taste for adventure is satisfied deep in the pages of a very good book.

Author : Bruce Jenkins
Publisher : Frog Books
ISBN 13 : 9781583941249
Total Pages : 284 pages
Book Rating : 4.4X/5 ( download)

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Download or read book North Shore Chronicles written by Bruce Jenkins and published by Frog Books. This book was released on 2005-08-05 with total page 284 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.

Author : John Long
Publisher : Rowman & Littlefield
ISBN 13 : 0762777451
Total Pages : 337 pages
Book Rating : 4.57/5 ( download)

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Download or read book Big Juice written by John Long and published by Rowman & Littlefield. This book was released on 2011-11-08 with total page 337 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The best and newest big-wave surfing stories from the sport’s insiders More than a decade ago, John Long published his now classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented look at the larger-than-life frontier of big wave surfing. Since then, the sport has exploded in popularity. The big wave bar keeps rising as extreme surfers continue to seek out, surf, and survive a ride on the elusive 100-foot wave. The incredible stories of a new generation of thrill-seeking, death-defying surfers and stunning, full-color photography of monster waves fill the pages of this new collection by John Long and former surfing pro Sam George. A powerful, contemporary look at the men and women who live and breathe for the next big wave and the bigger, more dangerous challenge, The Big Juice presents a rich history of characters, controversies, heroism, humor, and tragedy that define the sport. With contributions from: - Ben Marcus, author of The Surfing Handbook and The Art of Stand Up Paddling - Chris Dixon, writer, Surfer magazine - Kimball Taylor, writer, ESPN - Bruce Jenkins, author of North Shore Chronicles; writer, Sports Illustrated - Drew Kampion, former editor of Surfer, Surfing, Wind Surf, and Wind Tracks magazines; author of The Book of Waves: Form and Beauty on the Ocean - James Hollmer-Cross, writer, Surfing magazine . . . and big-wave surfers: - Laird Hamilton - Dave Kalama - Evan Slater - Shane Dorian - Greg Noll- and more

Author : John Long
Publisher : Falcon Guides
ISBN 13 : 9781560449171
Total Pages : 260 pages
Book Rating : 4.79/5 ( download)

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Download or read book The Big Drop written by John Long and published by Falcon Guides. This book was released on 1999 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A classic collection of big wave surfing stories that heralded a new era in surfing literature--32 tantalizing and terrifying true tales from the sport's pioneers

Author : Jim Buckley
Publisher : Carson-Dellosa Publishing
ISBN 13 : 164369670X
Total Pages : 48 pages
Book Rating : 4.06/5 ( download)

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Download or read book Big Wave Surfing written by Jim Buckley and published by Carson-Dellosa Publishing. This book was released on 2018-11-30 with total page 48 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: You want intense? How about a mountain of water as high as a building? The world’s greatest big wave surfers face that challenge and conquer whatever the ocean can throw at them! Find out how big wave surfing started, meet the top wave riders, and learn how these daring athletes conquer the world’s biggest waves! This title will allow students to explain events, procedures, ideas, or concepts in a historical, scientific, or technical text, including what happened and why, based on specific information in the text. • Profiles of athletes • Text based questions • Bolded keywords

Author : Kai Lenny
Publisher : Rizzoli Publications
ISBN 13 : 0847870855
Total Pages : 306 pages
Book Rating : 4.51/5 ( download)

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Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2021-10-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156032513
Total Pages : 820 pages
Book Rating : 4.11/5 ( download)

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Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Author : Douglas G. Booth
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN 13 : 0313380430
Total Pages : 182 pages
Book Rating : 4.33/5 ( download)

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Download or read book Surfing written by Douglas G. Booth and published by Bloomsbury Publishing USA. This book was released on 2011-02-18 with total page 182 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This guide showcases the world of extreme surfing, describing the unique culture associated with this daredevil's sport, providing insights into what makes the top riders tick, explaining the science of big waves, and more. "The Pipeline" in O'ahu, Hawaii. "Maverick's Point" in northern California. "Ours" near Sydney, Australia. All over the world, extreme surfers risk severe injury or even death from riptides, shark attacks, and collisions with the seabed itself, just to experience the ultimate high from tackling—and triumphing over—one of the most powerful forces on earth. Surfing: The Ultimate Guide explains the culture of extreme surfing—including the often violent "locals only" mentality—and analyzes the dangers involved in riding the world's biggest and most ferocious waves. The author examines the history of extreme surfing, including past and contemporary heroes; the science of giant waves; the technical criteria for riding them; and the future of big-wave riding.

Author : Alastair Mennie
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780956503909
Total Pages : 208 pages
Book Rating : 4.0X/5 ( download)

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Download or read book Surfing Mennie Waves written by Alastair Mennie and published by . This book was released on 2010 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This generation has witnessed a quiet revolution in Irish surf. Al Mennie personifies that picture. His is an honest and ego-free account of what it takes to surf waves that are big enough to sink ships.

Author : Rusty Long
Publisher : Insight Editions
ISBN 13 : 9781608874095
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.95/5 ( download)

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Download or read book The Finest Line written by Rusty Long and published by Insight Editions. This book was released on 2015-04-14 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Finest Line explores the world of big-wave surfing and it’s dynamic evolution. Through images of hallmark days from the best big-wave locations around the world, firsthand accounts from those who dedicate their lives to chasing and riding giant waves, and expert commentary about the treacherous characteristics of each location, The Finest Line offers an unprecedented glimpse into the psychology of big-wave surfing, as well as its extreme risks and unparalleled rewards. Big-wave surfing has long been a part of the sport, but this subculture of the surf world is now moving out of the fringes. The current generation of surfers is continually reinventing the limits, making this the most advanced, dynamic, and exciting period in big-wave surfing history. This stunning coffee table book captures the essence of the sport through breathtaking images and stories, as well as exclusive interviews with the surfers who play the starring roles during these rare, large-swell events. Here you discover the complex logistics behind staging missions to the Cortes Bank, a phantom reef 100 miles out to sea; the mental and physical regimens of surfers such as Shane Dorian, Greg Long, and Grant “Twiggy” Baker; the psychology of living in pursuit of the world’s meanest waves; the stories behind the paddle-in renaissance that has come to define the next level of big-wave surfing; and firsthand accounts of those now-rare “tow-only” days that captivate audiences worldwide. More than a collection of big-wave photographs, The Finest Line covers the giant, hallmark sessions from the most impressive spots around the globe, capturing the international flavor of the sport and exploring the insatiable drive of a rare breed of thrill seekers.